I could probably go on for hours about all of the things that I love about South Korea. This country has amazed me in ways I never thought possible. When I decided to embark on this adventure I had no idea what wonders were in store for me. I will try to do this remarkable place some justice with a short list of things I love.
1)
The People: This category contains Koreans and foreigners alike. I have been overwhelmed with love for the people I have met here. Strangers on buses and in the subway have stopped to help us enough times for me to think that kindness still exists in the world. Waiters/waitresses/shop clerks etc. have gone out of their way to offer a smile and patient understanding while we mime our way through their country. The foreigners I have met can't even adequately be described, but seeing how this is my blog I will try to do so... beautiful, open, caring, loving, cultured, hilarious, wild, but mostly enigmatic. Three girls in particular have wormed their way into my heart and I know I will be meeting them around the world for years to come. Mara, Katie, and Danielle, thank you for everything, I shudder at the thought of saying goodbye. The sense of community among foreigners is strong enough for me to happily consider some of these weirdos my family.
2)
The Food and Drinks: Imagine taking the fattest piece of bacon you can find and BBQing it on a grill located in the middle of your table. Now add homemade sides of kimchi, vegetables, and rice all washed down with a drink potent enough to knock you over which only costs $1... HEAVEN. Korean meals are an experience worth having. It is customary to remove your shoes at the entrance to the restaurant and then sit on floor pillows with your legs tucked under a table seemingly crafted for 3 year olds. As the Soju begins to flow you find yourself grateful to be solidly planted on the floor, as the clear, almost flavorless drink packs a powerful punch. Food is served family style with each person receiving his/her own pot of rice (usually served in a stone bowl that stays dangerously hot) and a multitude of sides scattered throughout the table. The meat sizzles right under your nose, and the smell creates a temptation which is almost to much to bear. Anther favorite: makgeolli. I can't even think about makgeolli without wanted to reach for the nearest bottle. Who knew that Korean rice wine would be so delicious. A hint for the amateurs; add a splash of Denmark drinking yogurt (another favorite edible) and enjoy a milkshake that gets you pleasantly tipsy. Other favorite treats here include kimbab triangles (a triangle of tuna/bbq chicken/mystery meat wrapped in rice, covered in seaweed), kimchi, mandu (like potstickers but better), bibimbap (fancy fried rice), and walnut balls. I could go on for pages about the food here but I will refrain.
3)
The Shopping: There once was a time when I went to France and came home with an entire extra suitcase of clothes I had acquired. This time I am looking at three extra. THE CLOTHES! THE SHOES! Sorry to any male readers of this blog, you might as well skip ahead to the next section. Downtown Gwangju is a labyrinth of twisting alleyways all jammed full of shoe/clothing/accessory boutiques. It is a girl's dream come true. I have to admit that shopping is not always fun here for two reasons; Koreans are generally tiny people who have no butts, making pant shopping impossible for those of us with curves, AND the fitting rooms are generally no bigger than a linen closet without mirrors. Put those two things together and it can make for one hell of an experience. I almost got stuck trying on a pair of too-tight jeans in the cardboard box marked as a dressing room. Self esteem killing aside, the shopping here is to die for. Aaron usually grabs my hand and runs me through downtown to stop me from straying into a shop and expanding my closet even more.
4)
Being a Waygook (outsider): Being an outsider is fun for a myriad of reasons. The first being that for whatever reason Koreans find white people very attractive. Random Koreans on the street, generally old ladies often stop me to tell me how beautiful I am. My children chant "Kerryn teacher beautiful" on a weekly basis. I am not one for vanity, but damn, it feels good to walk around like a movie star every once in awhile.
5)
Jjimjilbangs: I have briefly touched on these before but as with most things here, I feel like it is impossible to do them justice with words. I would try to photo document them but taking a camera into a room full of 200+ naked Korean women might not go over so well. Naked bodies, fierce scrubbing, saunas, hot rocks, heat lamps, scalding pools, ice water, and all for under $10. I recently discovered that you can pay extra to have a scantily clad ajjuma remove dead (and live) skin from your body using a force that contradicts her age and stature. Flopping around on a massage table, nude as can be, with an ajjuma peeling the dead skin from my bum, I found happiness (again). The spas are part of the culture here. People of every age come to find comfort and relaxation amongst each other. We need these in America.
6)
Festivals: There seems to be a festival each time a leaf falls from a tree or an ajjuma pushes someone out of her way. White tents sprout up, music starts blaring, and the makgeolli starts flowing. There is food everywhere and smells assault you at each corner (some good, some not so good). There is always a stage with karaoke, taekwando, or traditional dancing, the music blaring so loud it's disorienting. Festivals are an intriguing amalgamation of new and old. The elders wander around, losing themselves in the music of their childhood while teens hide behind their phones and tablets. Festivals are the next best place to people watch (after airports, of course) and I am usually most content with a bowl (yes, bowl) of makgeolli in hand, good friends at my side, and a view of the event.
7)
Norebongs: Private karaoke rooms complete with mics, disco lights, and cheap booze. What more could you ask for? Generally a stop late at night once everyone has thoroughly lost any sense of dignity, norebongs can get slightly out of hand. Spice Girls, Toto, Creed (shudders), you name it, and people will sing it. We all suffer from the misconception that inebriation turn us all into tune-carrying-Adeles. It may not sound pretty, but norebongs (and norebusses) are the creators of some of my fondest memories.
8)
The Scenery: Before I came to Korea, I honestly had no idea what to expect in terms of scenery. I had conflicting images of Tokyo-type cities sprawling with their neon lights to small stone dwellings with a trickle of smoke coming from the chimney. I did not ever imagine the two ideas coexisting while being cradled by green mountains. The mountains! Every small trip out of the city brings a reminder that I am nestled in a valley in this geographically turbulent country. Coming from Reno I find the mountains to be a source of comfort and familiarity. I was lucky enough to hike Mudeungsan (a popular mountain in Gwangju) early in the morning to watch the sunrise. Rivers of fog enveloped the world with only the peaks being bold enough to show themselves. As the sun rose, the fog dissipated and I was standing on top of the world looking out over infinite mountains and their valleys. Each season brings a new wave of colors, smells, and emotions. April brought the cherry blossoms, their soft petals covering the city like snowfall. With summer came the vivid greens, and now fall has turned South Korea into a world usually reserved for paintings.
9)
My Nerds: I realize that all of my photos, rantings, and blogs are usually about what takes place on the weekend. I should remind everyone that yes, I am still a teacher; 5 days a week, 9 hours a day. While I have many (far too many) nasty things to say about my boss, the kids are a huge part of my great experience here. I don't particularly like teaching (gasp) but I do really like children. This can create some strange emotions while working, but come the end of the day, I leave with love in my heart. Seriously, the little ones here are so damn cute. The fact that they are obsessed with me helps too. Screams of "Kerryn Teacher" serenade me everywhere I go in the building. It can be a little awkward when I am trying to use the restroom, but hey, that's life. Most of the girls (and some of the boys) dress with better style than I do, and they all look good. Perms and painted nails are not reserved for the girls (and here it isn't frowned upon for men to use purses). My favorite class is my Schule class named Lancaster: Ben, Jack, Colin, Dan, Kate, Amy, and Ruby... I love you dorks. The really small ones have taken to storm hugging me, making staying on my feet and not crushing them all a challenge. When I first arrived I thought that I had made a mistake by accepting a job in a kindergarten, but now I know this is where I am happiest; old enough to be out of diapers, yet still young enough to cow with one purposeful glance.
10)
Life in General: This may seem like a cop-out but I really do find myself content with my life here. Aaron and I have fallen into a perfect routine which was made complete this past week when we adopted a sweet dog named Mung Mung (Korean for woof woof). I love our shoe-box apartment, our twin bed, makeshift closet, and mini fridge. I love how we cook nearly every meal with fresh vegetables and eat fresh baked bread. I love how I have learned to workout without wanting to die. I love my walk home from work. I love pancakes on the weekends and cheese plates for dinner. I love my boyfriend and my dog. I love my friends. I love everyone and everything. I LOVE MY LIFE.