Summer

Summer in Korea has its pros and cons. The main con definitely being the fact that it is impossible to step outside without immediately shedding your body weight in sweat. While this has helped me lose weight, *high-fives self, it is also extremely disgusting and uncomfortable. The air is so humid that I feel like I have to literally swim through the moisture. Coming from the desert makes it even harder to deal with. I will take my Reno induced crocodile skin and chapped lips over the wet, smelly mess I have become.

With that said, summer here is AMAZING! I have never been so busy in my life. Various weekend trips, dinner dates, and excursions have me wondering where the time has gone. I am truly happy to admit that I have met some very incredible people during my time here. Actually, I have to admit that I have met wonderful people during all of my adventures around the world, and they have helped transform me into the person I never knew I wanted to be. So a small shout-out to friends met in France, Honduras, and South Korea, you will always be in my heart.

Enough sappy nonsense...

A couple weekends ago, Aaron and I went on a trip with Pedro (the man with a plan) to Namahe island. Known as Korea's "treasure island" Namhae boasts terraced rice fields facing rocky shores, the pair creating breathtaking scenery. I spent the weekend in a haze, stopping every once in a while to wonder at this adventure that my life has become. We spent time in an eclectic art museum full of clocks, shields, and a plethora of other random items. We then drove along the coast, admiring the calm sea and dramatic cliffs. In order to get to our minbak (like a hostel, sleep on the floor) we had to creep our way along the coastline as crazy Koreans sped past us fueling the "Asians can't drive" stereotype.We wound our way down a steep hillside, marveling at the many rooftops decorated with painted flowers of every shade. The minbak was perfect, wooden floors, walls, ceilings, and a shower that consisted of nothing more than a hose in the wall. The group headed down to a pebbly beach to swim (or to get stung by jellyfish in my case) and relax on the smooth, round, multi colored rocks that were washed up on shore. The only downside to being in a Korean paradise: litter. Plastic bags floated haphazardly along, joined by the occasional fishing net/line. The path down to the beach was scattered with small, camouflaged bunkers. Being the ignorant, naive, and happy people we are, we just assumed they were for paintball. Turns out, as Pedro put it, there is still a war going on and those bunkers house South Korean soldiers each night who keep an eye out for North Korean submarines trying to come ashore. That night we watched the sun set while perched on boulders, the rice paddies to one side, the shoreline to the other. 

In the museum

Rosie <3

South Korean soldier bunker to watch for North Koreans

Pebble beach

The next day was spent kayaking, canoeing, paddle boarding, and snorkeling in a new, not-so-polluted spot in sea. We ended our sea expedition on a massive raft, pretending we were ship wrecked, learning how to navigate away from rocks and rescuing any members of our party dawdling in the sea. It was a weekend of bliss.

Sea kayaking

Rescuing

Snorkeling

Pretty ladies in a pretty setting.

My lover.

This past weekend was yet another summer inspired, Pedro conducted adventure. We took off Saturday morning to marvel at a waterfall that was gushing thanks to a week of rain. The power of the fall was something to behold, so naturally we all jumped in to feel the tug of the current nudging us closer to the edge (and our immediate death). Pedro pulled out a magical bottle of vodka so we sat, surrounded by the mist of the fall, deafened by the roar of the water, sipping pomegranate cocktails, reveling in the perfect life we live.

Waterfall.

Pedro and his vodka

Post-waterfall we drove up and down a precarious mountain (stopping once so we could all pee in the bushes like regular heathens) and came upon a river in a remote town. Camped on a boulder, surrounded by nature, with makgeolli (fermented rice liquor) in hand, I was at peace. We embarked on an epic excursion down the river, giggling and shrieking as the ice-cold water reminded us that summer is coming to an end. When it came time to head back to our camp we nervously admitted that we had no idea how we would navigate ourselves back up the turbulent river. A few lunges, bruises, and near death experiences landed us back on our boulder.

River times

I have said it before and I will say it again, I LOVE KOREA. Summer is wrapping up slowly and I can't wait to see what ridiculous situations we will find ourselves in come winter.

Island Life

Summer vacation has come and gone. Although I am mourning the fact that it is over, I take solace in knowing that I had the best vacation of my life. Being an adult sucks in many regards; IE working full time, having to pay for everything on my own, and needing to fall asleep at 9pm. However, the one thing that I love about being "responsible" is having a paid vacation. We took advantage of our break by running away to Korea's most popular island: Jejudo.

On the ferry

A two hour bus ride (that we almost missed) took us to a port where we jumped on a high speed ferry that took us over to the island in about two hours. We were assaulted with a face full of hot, humid air that left us breathless, yet giddy. The island life had begun.

A taxi dropped us off at our first guesthouse of the week, Doona's Guesthouse. I have never been so excited to see a porch! One downside about living in Korea is the lack of time we spend outdoors. We seem to bounce from our school (where we are locked inside for 9 hours a day) to our shoebox apartment, and the only time we spend outside in the week is during our half hour walk home. The wrap around porch and garden at Doona's were a welcome relief from the urban life we live. Doona's is located in the southern part of Jejudo, in a small city called Seogwipo. Views of the ocean, lush valleys, and volcanic cliffs replaced the usual sight of high rise apartments and Paris Baguette bakeries.

View from our hostel's porch

Our time at Doona's rushed by as time on vacation always seems to do. We visited waterfalls, lava tunnels, parks, volcanic craters and beaches. The best way to get around the island is by city bus which took us through green fields and along ocean coastlines. Apparently Jejudo has been named as one of the seven new wonders of the world and I can understand why.

Small waterfall

Jeongbang waterfall

Beach <3

Lava tunnel entrance

Stone statues

For the hopes of reunification

Jeju

Traditional house and kimchi pots

View from the crater

Sunrise Peak crater

Aside from the porch, the best part about Doona's was the people that we met. There is something bonding about sharing a hostel with fellow English teachers enjoying the "island life", a term that was repeated an incredible amount of times yet never got old. New friends from Seoul inspired Aaron and me to embark on a longer Southeast Asia backpacking trip (but I will explain that later). The most memorable night of the trip occurred when we were on the porch (of course) drinking beer and eating pizza (like true Americans) and Doona's husband ushered us into his van to go night swimming. He took us to a place revered among locals where ice cold water that flows under the island rushes into the warm sea water. Soju bottles in hand we all stumbled and giggled our way into the ocean to gaze up at stars (which I have not seen in 5 months), and at that point I felt utter contentedness: life was perfect.

Sarah and Belva

Since we were living the island life it only seemed appropriate that a typhoon would sweep over the island during our stay. The rain came in waves, pounding down on us with such intensity that all other sound vanished, but then it would stop again leaving us to wonder if we had imagined the whole thing. On the day of the "hurricane" we traveled up north to stay in Jeju city, the biggest city on the island. We found ourselves reunited with our Doona friends in a small Indian restaurant with fist fulls of naan and chai tea. After sufficiently gorging ourselves we moved to a covered patio, smoked a traditional hookah, and listened to the storm rage around us. This was the second time in my trip that I felt euphoric happiness, everything was exactly as it should be.

Hookah at the Indian restaurant

The evening continued with a quest to find a German Brewery. I cannot stress enough how terrible Korean beer is so the prospect of a decent brew had us wandering the streets in a downpour, unrelenting in our search. With a cheer and immediate cry of anguish we found the brewery, it was closed. We decided to duck into The Witch House across the street. This bar with its musty cigarette smell, black tinted windows, and red painted walls would fit in Reno perfectly. However, 10 Cass beers, a few pieces of pineapple, 4 peanuts and 100,000won later it had us running to the now open brewery. A few very intense games of Mafia, far too many pitchers of stout, and an embarrassing session at a norebong (Korean singing room) finished up the night.

Happy with good beer in hand

Our last day was spent on the beach as we attempted to soak up enough vitamin D to last us through the winter. Epic amounts of planning for our Southeast Asia trip in March took place while floating in a roped off, patrolled area of the ocean (damn Korea). That night as the sun set we made our way to a scandalous place known as Loveland. For such a conservative country, South Korea sure does love dick statues. The erotic theme park filled us with embarrassed giggles, shocked exclamations, and downright curiosity.

Hyeopjae Beach

Perfect

Loveland

Loveland

Loveland

Loveland

Aaron and I have decided to spend a week in the Philippines then a few weeks volunteering in Borneo before heading to lounge on the beaches of southern Thailand. We will then make our way up north into Cambodia and Laos before finally relenting and returning the states at the beginning of May. I cannot even begin to explain my excitement and enthusiasm for this trip. I believe now that I was born to travel, and I don't think I will ever be able to settle for anything else.